Paris - Lunch - Day 4

On Saturday morning (Paris day #4) we went for a walk around ‘Les Halles’ the old market of Paris for over 800 years called ‘the Belly of Paris’. In the late 60’s the government decided to move the market from the heart of the city to relieve traffic congestion from the market. The area continues to attract locals and tourists to the restaurants and cafes that fill the streets around the current site which is now a huge underground shopping centre. I had my heart set on lunch at the famous ‘Tour de Montlhery - Chez Denis’ (5 Rue Prouvaires, 75001 Paris, tele 01 42 36 21 82). This restaurant has been serving the market butchers for over 100 years. Even after the Les Halles market moved to Rungis in 1969, this bistro continues to be going strong with their emphasis on meat, particularly offal. Unfortunately, they are only open Monday to Friday from morning until 0500.


We asked a local foie gras vendor for his recommendation and he directed us across the street to ‘Le Gros Minet’ (1 Rue Prouvaires, 75001 Paris, tele 01 42 33 02 62), a small tavern style restaurant just a few doors down from Chez Denis. The restaurant is run by a husband and wife team who has apparently been in this spot for decades! The ambiance was amazing with old photos and postcards stuck to the wall in between bric a brac that had been acquired over the years. Just based on the atmosphere this is a place you would stop in for a bite to eat or a drink if you lived in the neighborhood.

Lon admiring the bar

  

Pate

 

Warm Gizzard Salad



We walked in at noon to find 2 ladies having some wine before lunch, very quiet for Saturday lunch. While the wife/owner spoke very little English we just loved the feel of the room and the menu selections. While the prix fixe menu was very reasonably priced at 18E for 3 courses we opted for 3 courses from the a la carte menu.

Jeff ordered a ‘gezier salad’ consisting of warm sautéed chicken gizzards served over fresh salad greens with a simple dressing. The combination sounds very odd, but was outstanding, so much so he barely shared any with me! My simple hearty Breton pate was also excellent, served with cornichons and excellent French mustard, but was overshadowed by Jeff’s salad.

Our mains were duck breast with french fried potatoes (just look at those fries!) and boudin noir with mashed potatos, roasted apple, tapenade and mustard. Both of these were prepared in a very traditional french country style with no extra seasoning or sauces. This allowed the flavour of tasty (albeit a bit tough) duck breast and blood sausage shine through. Simply delicious. By this time the restaurant was packed with Parisians’.

We ended the meal with coffee ice cream chocolate cake and espresso. An excellent Brittany coast country lunch in the heart of the 1st only 2 blocks from the Louvre! All of this for 60E for 2 including a pichet of rose, tax and tip.